Видео

3D printer would solve your problem.

Do you still have this set & can I buy it off of you?

Very cool idea!

It was Plain Obvious ! That ! TYCO ! Wanted People like you ! To Spend ! Gazzlions ! On Keeping ! There ! Cars ! Running A FEW ! MORE ! LAPS !!

I Think ! This LOOKS ! WAY TOO ! MUCH !! A.F.X ! Ish ! Totally SAD ! KENBRITE ! Weren't ! Still Together ! With TYCO ! NITE GLOW DOUBLE LOOPER and Command Control ! ) Of the Late Seventys early Eighties !

Does this work with HO train wheels?

made in china ?

Awesome!!!

I found this set in one of my local Goodwill stores several years ago. Unfortunately, t was missing the two small track supports, but everything else was there. I'm still looking for the two small track supports before I attempt to assemble it.

THAT'S A AFX TRACK MY GUY!!!😂

Awesome!

I had this!

Hi, I enjoy ur videos, one day can u show and explain how to dye ur chassis,5hx

I love Harden Creek!!!!

That's is awesome my friend. Music and all. I cant believe the rig moves that good. Now I want one. You know one will not be enough.

Best Show In Town😁👍🚗🇺🇸🌍🛸

THE FENDERS ARE WAY 2 LARGE ON THE FLARES...PICTURE OF INTERIOR IS WAY LOW CLASS...I BOUGHT 8 MODELS ANYWAY😅

If the shoe is floating, doesn’t that make the spring the primary current path? Is the spring able to handle the current without removing the temper from it?

Terry..Thanks a bunch !!

Thank you so much for posting this. I bought a lot of these very tracks years ago and am finally going to bust them out. As I figured, we gotta do a little work with the wheels, as well as getting those motors warmed up a bit. :)

can you swap in upgraded traction magnets, without having to take the entire chassis apart? I just want to upgrade the traction magnets, but being an AFX guy, I only have 1 Tyco chassis and I have very little experience with them. mostly get turned off dealing with the pickup shoe springs, my hands and old eyes always have trouble just replacing a pickup shoe on them.

I had this set when I was a kid & the snakebite truck never worked right lmao

i had one of these for years , it never work once no matter what we did.

I had this track growing up... I'm shocked how easy you made the jump loop. I remember it had a trick to it... Like letting go of the accelerator at 25% of the loop.

So happy with the super 7s. I sat tgere looking at my 4 beautiful Super 111 licensed livery bodies and dreading the massive maintenance it took just to keep them running. Now, they are the hottest looking and performing things on the track.

Have you tried other body types on the super iii or just the ones they say it's for

I had two original release super iii chassis In my box for years that I could never get to run right. I decided to mess with them the for the past few nights. I got one running quite good. For me the culprits were primarily the gears and how the shoes fit on the brush barrels. I put a Lifelike M Chassis rear axle in with some slip on silicones. And that quieted it a bunch. I played with brush tension and checked the armature wasn’t binding. I ended up setting some very fast lap times with it. It was slightly dragging in the back and riding high in the front. I ended up crashing it and breaking the shoe retainer off the front of the chassis. I ordered a bunch of parts and 2 bare chassis to mess with. Meanwhile I rigged the chassis up with a paper clip to hold the shoe but the car lost .5 seconds somehow. I took it completely apart. I put in a 3 ohm arm from a Tyco HPX2. It needed 3 or 4 spacers on the rear. I put the factory AW spacers on the front. I used the HPX2 brushes and I put the tyco HPX2 pinion on plus the Lifelike axle and crown in. It had no balls. I futzed with it for almost 2 hours and traced it to the shoe in one side not making great contact to the brush barrels. Plus the spring was also played out on that side. I tweaked it around best I could and the car TOOK OFF! It set the fastest lap my track ever saw. I also added some Neo disc magnets to the outside of the chassis that are helping the motor magnets. It definitely helped. I think shunts from the shoes to the tubes would be great but not super fun to do. It’s also dead quiet now with different gears. Is it still a super iii? I don’t know but it’s easy to work on and moves good now. I think anybody messing with these cars that wants to help them out is to change the rear gears. It’s dramatic. The motors can run not too badly if you make sure they are getting good contact at the brush tubes and aren’t binding at all , plus oil them often. Auto world cars look great but they aren’t for people who don’t like to tinker.

Yea sandpaper works way faster then the penny. Cant believe as a kid we used to use the coin. Ha

Man, these videos of yours have helped me enjoy this hobby exponentially. I've got 50 HO cars, 32 of them are Tyco 440x2 and Hp7s. They ALL run WAY BETTER than when I bought them brand new because of these workbench videos. I just ordered my 3rd and 4th Super 7 chassis last night. This video will be saved in my workbench playlist. I highly recommend ho slotcar owners do this. A round of applause for Terry FLynn for not only revitalizing this hobby but also moving it forward.

Really in joy the bench work stuff.Terry .👍

Excellent video. Terry do you have an engineering background?

Contacted Terry for a controller for my track…cars …Tjet he recommended the DS …..AND AM totally satisfied with them….as a good all around controller…..have a model motoring track that I had when I first started in the hobby……thanks Terry….very satisfied…Harden creek is the best……🏎️🏎️🏎️🏎️🏎️🏎️ Charlie

Most informative. Will be calling you tomorrow (Friday) !

Thanks for the info Terry its very helpful.

Learned a lot appreciate you knowledge time.😊

Great video. I do agree about the BSRT AXLE bending or being bent From a few years ago. However now they are rock solid.

I'm scared of high end mega$$$ electronic controllers due to the desire to be able to run at any track voltage. This may no longer be an issue but used to hear horror stories about running a low ohm magnet car at 22 volts and frying a power transistor in the last few heats which leads to a $150 repair and shipping bill and no controller for a month. In HO, I never have to fear a wire wound resistor burning up on me. It was possible to burn one up when I was running 1/24 scale wing cars because they can pull some outrageous current but that's a different story.

Thanks Terry. I would really appreciate a short addendum to this episode where you talk a little about metal gears. I had a low quality press that I bent a pretty nice coated axle on while trying to press a metal gear on. I then discovered Mitchell's abrasive cord and figured out how to use that stuff to finely "tune" the ID on the metal gears to maintain a tight press-on fit but not so tight that it either bent the axle or stripped off the coating. Any tips or tricks you have for metal gears would be great.

Tools look great ! I'm looking for tools that work with Aurora T-Jets . Pancake type chassis ?

I found his website when i got back into the hobby after a 30 year break and I'll tell you this. Look, Terry's the man when it comes to ho mods. He's helped me bring my racing game to the next level and beyond. The tech support straight from him is what keeps me going back for more parts on top of the good prices. Plus nobody else is offering reward points. If you have a question he'll answer it and never steer you wrong. The interview tells it all

I've seen a lot of dynos from VRP but cannot find them for sale... How can I get one?

can you tell me how you bult he track an he pic go to it thank tim

Thank you for the video, I own 4 Super 7s myself and will try some of the recommendations to see if that brings even more speed.

Great information sir never had much early 60 ‘s to work on cars thank you for your time knowledge .😊😊

We got a problem with my track, it's just simply not clicking together! No matter the pressure or trying to slide it on nothing.

Another great video, yessir 🏁

Another awesome video, as usua.l

Excellent video! Probably the first time I've seen a video where the can motor was opened up and worked on. Have done it myself a few times usually to replace a fried arm. Didn't have anything to guide me other than my eyes and the desire to try. Glad I did because then the ability to salvage parts became reality and tweaking or "blue-printing" the endbell became a "thing". Lots of factory assembled Turbos had mangled motor busses and that always bothered me so I'd reshape them often. Sometimes they break off to the point where there's not enough left to make contact with the hanger. Anyways I actually found this video relaxing! A couple decades ago I used to run a Turbo Street Corvette with 23 tooth crown against my friends SG+ 25 tooth with BMW M1 body. Back straight was about 20 feet long and at the end I'd be right there with him and sometimes in front. Of course he'd leave me behind in the curves and I could never lap him. Didn't matter it was great fun! Understanding how things work and why they work the way that they do is enjoyable to me and this video is an amazing example of the knowledge it takes a long time to acquire for most people. If we're lucky!

Appears to be very quick and a good bang for your buck for that quick hop-up. You can sand the bottom to run shorter tires and add less tooth to your crown gear or more tooth to your pinion to your liking. In all, these are very economically priced for what you get if you like to tune cars. I have been using the stock armature and with tunes, it is very quick as well. Yes those brush tubes are tricky, stock, but I still have mine stock. Thanks for your tips and time making your video. Thumbs up!

Any advice on switching out the magnets on Mega G+ ? Just pop em out?